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It is often necessary to re-bond a bare die. Typical reasons include:

FIXME: Has anyone tried wirebonding to FIBbed pads?

Several firms sell refurbished wire bonders and provide service, support, and parts. Some of these companies will also do custom bonding projects for single dies or small lots.

Surface preparation

If any existing bonds, or pieces of them, are still on the pads these must be removed first.

Pads should be clean and undamaged.

FIXME: Get a photo of a nice clean pad that copper bond wire was etched off of

Mounting

The die must be secured firmly to its new package to keep it from moving around. AZ has had good experiences using a tiny dot of cyanoacrylate adhesive, although silver epoxy or Crystalbond would likely work fine as well. Make sure the volume of adhesive is low enough that it doesn't squeeze out and get on the top of the die.

Re-bonding

Bonding to a clean, once-bonded pad should be essentially the same as bonding to a never-bonded pad. Contact resistance may be a little higher and reliability reduced, but this isn't a big concern if you just want to dump the firmware.

Bondable materials

Bondable surfaces are generally soft metals with minimal oxidation (thin native oxide will be penetrated by the “scrubbing” action of the ultrasound, but thicker oxides will cause problems)

  • Aluminum bond pads
    Good results as long as bond wires were removed cleanly
  • Copper bond pads
    AZ has no experience with these
  • Gold plated CERDIP pads
    Good results
  • ENIG PCB finish This is not normally considered a bondable material (50-125 nm of Au, typical “bondable gold” plating is 750-1250 nm) but in AZ's experience acceptable results can usually be obtained. \\

Tool-specific notes

 
bonding/rebond.1449855992.txt.gz · Last modified: 2015/12/11 17:46 by azonenberg
 
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