decap:ceramic
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decap:ceramic [2018/03/12 03:55] – mcmaster | decap:ceramic [2020/10/21 22:24] (current) – [Glass frit] mcmaster | ||
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====== Metal lid ====== | ====== Metal lid ====== | ||
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+ | Above: 8751 decapped using a torch + magnet | ||
See also: [[decap: | See also: [[decap: | ||
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====== Glass frit ====== | ====== Glass frit ====== | ||
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+ | 2020-10-21 | ||
+ | * General consensus may be that heating to below melting point (softens but doesn' | ||
+ | * Mind heat and cool cycles to avoid thermal shock | ||
JM 2016-11 advice: | JM 2016-11 advice: | ||
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Above: typical crack due to not pre-heating bottom | Above: typical crack due to not pre-heating bottom | ||
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+ | ===== Bandsaw ===== | ||
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+ | Above: fixturing for cutting. Sample held in DIP 40 ZIF. Use cross slide to stablize. | ||
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+ | Above: cuts on far sides of cavity. They are above wires but not the die | ||
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+ | Above: tape placed to keep lid in place as its sheered off. Excessive movement may damage bond wires. Tape also helps retain large pieces if it fractures. | ||
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+ | Above: lid peeled off after sheering | ||
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+ | DB-100 diamond bandsaw | ||
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+ | 2019-12-16 procedure for large ceramic packages: | ||
+ | * Place chip in DIP-40 socket to help steady during cutting | ||
+ | * Saw a slit on both sides of the cavity | ||
+ | * As far as possible, usually about 0.1" after the quartz window | ||
+ | * Saw just into the glass frit | ||
+ | * WARNING: failing to completely separate ceramic can lead to unpredictable breakage | ||
+ | * Should be roughly above where the bond wires attach but not above the die | ||
+ | * Small debris in the cavity is normal and shouldn' | ||
+ | * Pins make good guides. I usually saw between two | ||
+ | * Fill with nail polish to help protect the die against debris | ||
+ | * Use a small pipette to pump it into the cavity from one side | ||
+ | * Should push out any water from sawing | ||
+ | * Alternatively, | ||
+ | * Place in vice with top cavity just above jaws | ||
+ | * Place tape over top of package | ||
+ | * Gently tap side of lid with chisel to sheer it | ||
+ | * Peel away tape and lid together | ||
+ | * Wash nail polish away with acetone | ||
+ | * See UV masking page for more info | ||
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+ | Grinding: | ||
+ | * Grinding was used more initially, but can be slower (especially for large packages) and may have increased change to damage die | ||
+ | * Alternate side of blade used to prolong blade life | ||
+ | * Slowly side grind and/or cut across the whole cavity | ||
+ | * Cut about halfway through the top ceramic | ||
+ | * You shouldn' | ||
+ | * Try to make one continuous cut | ||
+ | * Multiple cuts increase change to fragment and create larger debris | ||
+ | * Wash nail polish away with acetone | ||
+ | * See UV masking page for more info | ||
===== Thermal fracture (old) ===== | ===== Thermal fracture (old) ===== | ||
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While this does work, I've had much higher success rate with "top heat" procedure. | While this does work, I've had much higher success rate with "top heat" procedure. | ||
+ | ===== Mill package ===== | ||
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+ | Above: test slot. The 1/8" or so endmill broke after 3 CNC passes despite water cooling, slow speed, and shallow depth | ||
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+ | Above: only diamond shaped tooth carbide endmills seem to be able to remove ceramic reasonably. From reading online, only carbide or diamond tools should even be considered for ceramics. Diamond studded endmills also exist, but are a bit expensive so I haven' | ||
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+ | ===== Laser ===== | ||
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+ | 40W CO2 laser can melt package, but it didn't evaporate. Also rest of package get severe thermal shock and cracked here and there | ||
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+ | Window was easily melted, but had a tendency to slice through the bond wires below | ||
===== Shearing ===== | ===== Shearing ===== |
decap/ceramic.1520826950.txt.gz · Last modified: 2018/03/12 03:55 by mcmaster